PURE LONDON'S GLORIA SANDRUCCI AND JATC'S JULS DAWSON ON CREATING A NEW "FESTIVAL OF FASHION"
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BY THE INDUSTRY FASHION, LAURETTA ROBERTS
Fashion buyers in the UK (and beyond) can look forward to a more exciting, efficient and inspirational trip to London for AW24 order writing in February as two of the most influential shows in the trade show calendar will be staged side-by-side at London Olympia from 11-13 February. Following the acquisition of JATC (Just Around The Corner) by Hyve, parent of Pure London, the shows will now run under one roof but retain their distinct identities.
The result will be 300 brands across a broad range of fashion and lifestyle categories all showing together and, along with Pure's renowned catwalk and content programme, the result will be a new "festival of fashion" for London. And let's not forget Hyve's premium contemporary show Scoop will be running at the same time in a nearby hall at the historic venue (which itself is about to undergo a major transformation).
We talk to Pure London Event Director Gloria Sandrucci and JATC founder Juls Dawson (also the owner of fashion agency Just Consultancies) on what we can expect from the new, unified event.
Before we get on to the plans for next season, can you tell is how the last shows went for both Pure and JATC; what was the mood among retailers and exhibitors?
GS: I was blown away by the overwhelmingly positive response from buyers and exhibitors last July. The focus for Pure London SS24 season was, ‘Newness’ and this thread ran through the show which presented a new look and edited layout, welcomed a host of exciting new international brands, celebrated the return of UK retail stalwarts, showcased the new POP destination and, as part of the new collaboration with Graduate Fashion Week, placed graduate designs on the Pure London catwalk. We enjoyed fantastic visitor numbers across the three days and exhibitors reported that they were pleased by the levels of business achieved, many of these brands are joining us again this February which is the best testament to the success of the show.
JD: The last JATC show was well received and confirmed that our formula and identity is unique in the UK and one that with Hyve we can carry forward to our first combined show in February. Despite the date cross over last season with other London events, we had a great show, and the industry overwhelmingly wants all events together under one roof at Olympia and we’re excited to bring that to them.
Gloria Sandrucci, Director of Pure London and Juls Dawson, Founder of Just Around The Corner
Next season will be the first show where you are both in the same location in Olympia’s Grand Hall. Can you explain to us why you made the decision to co-locate this time around?
GS: Pure London and JATC uniting will create a revolutionary fashion buying event for the industry and will offer buyers a transformed show with an increased number of inspirational fashion designers and brands. The decision was driven by the desire to make buying easier and better for buyers. Our mission is to become Europe’s most inspiring and diverse celebration of fashion providing the best edit of brands, the most trusted trends insights, offer transformative business opportunities, while speaking up for sustainability. By uniting with JATC, and with Pure London’s 25-year history, the combined teams can pool their expertise, resources, and network to create the leading fashion trade show experience under one iconic roof at Olympia London.
JD: We have seen a trend post covid around the world for trade shows uniting and mirroring this in February can only be a good thing for the UK and international markets. It makes sense to combine Pure London x JATC and having the new concept in one location and on one dateline as it makes it easier for the brands and buyers to come together. We are also bringing new categories and brands to Olympia, beauty, lifestyle and menswear which will enhance the offering for visitors.
Since you made the announcement what has been the response from both visitors and exhibitors? It’s certainly more convenient and we have Scoop next door as well.
GS: The response has been hugely positive. Visitors welcome the new and streamlined approach to buying which brings three of the UK’s fashion trade shows under one roof and on the same date line, with Pure London x JATC uniting and Scoop a stand-alone show. Exhibitors also welcome the new show format and the resulting increase in brands and visitors. Everyone is very excited to see what we have planned for this first season.
JD: Honestly the response has surpassed all expectations. Highlights being, “This should have happened years ago!” and “Finally!” We know we have made the right decision for everyone involved. We are giving brands in the new categories the opportunity to showcase their collections to a wider audience including fashion buyers and energising fashion retail with new opportunities.
How many brands can we expect to see at the show and from each of your perspectives, are there any particular highlights or new names you would like to mention?
GS: Pure London x JATC will present a curated selection of over 300 brands, in clearly defined sectors to ensure a seamless and cohesive buying experience. In Pure London, Woman, the show’s largest destination, will unite all womenswear and visitors can expect a comprehensive and varied selection of styles from athleisure, street and everyday basics to luxury, heritage, occasionwear and timeless classics to lingerie and resort wear. Exhibitors will include GWD, Humility, La fee Maraboutee, Lily and Me, Access, Mirayama, NoushElla and Goose Island. Pure London also has, POP, inspired by pop culture, the youthful and creative sector offers a diverse selection of alternative, streetwear, gender-fluid collections, vintage labels, festival ‘fits and tech infused pieces. Brands will include Glamorous, Nova of London, Audrey Hamilton Apparel and The Social Club. Finally, the Sustainable destination, showcasing a carefully curated selection of conscious exhibitors leading the way in addressing their environmental and social impact. Exhibitors will include Tina Aileen, Feel fit, Noema and Buzz & Luna.
JD: In JATC we have Dagny D, Ibex England, Lefrik, Nina Atelier, Alex Max, Fonem, Nescarf, Amorcito, Etoile Studio, FL The Private Collection, LoveRocks London, Pig and Hen, Sibilia, Studio Etoile, The Narratives Lines, Sonata, Remus Uomo, Gianni Feraud Kusan Accessories, Outerknown and Soek.
Tell us about the visitor mix. Traditionally we think of both shows being strong with independents, but the audience is wider than that. Also do you think having both shows together will broaden your visitor base?
GS: Pure London has always attracted a diverse range of visitors from independent boutiques to retail chains and department stores and we work incredibly hard to ensure we offer something truly exciting to visitors from all parts of the industry. Uniting Pure London x JATC has increased the number of buyers we appeal to, and we are really looking forward to welcoming many new retailers to the first combined show.
JD: Undoubtably the new zones that JATC is bringing to the combined event will attract a wider demographic and cross section of retailers particularly from menswear buyers and lifestyle and speciality stores.
How will the show flow and how we will be able to see the respective personalities and offers of Pure London x JATC in the space?
GS: Pure London is known for our incredible curation of womenswear brands and this season, in the Grand Hall, the collections are edited according to style creating the POP, Sustainable and enlarged, Woman destinations. JATC will host Menswear, Shoes & Accessories, Jewellery, Together and Beauty & Lifestyle in the Grand Hall Gallery.
JD: Although the new event in February will unite Pure London x JATC as one show, both sections in the Grand Hall and Grand Hall Gallery will retain the unique identities that they have become known for. JATC will have their signature industrial backdrop and pared back aesthetic with no stand builds that puts all exhibitors on a level playing field. We have also kept the one-way system which creates a cohesive path for buyers and ensures that every stand is passed on the buyer’s journeys through the show.
When work on the edit of the respective shows, how much do you take into account feedback from visitors and what have they been saying they would like to see?
GS: Pure London has always welcomed the feedback of the industry, retailers and exhibitors. We travel to many international shows to research exciting brands and really look for something very special and unique. We are known for providing an exceptional and exclusive content programme which aims to address the biggest challenges facing retailers and the industry and at the start of each season we take time to really research the questions and discussions our audience will most value hearing.
JD: In the past at JATC we have always listened to feedback from our customers and we are always open to amending the format where possible. Our strapline used to be ‘By the industry, for the industry!’ As an agent we have attended shows around the world for 25 years and have always try to bring back the best bits with us from our experiences to our own trade show.
Which are the particular trends/categories/product you would expect to do well at the next edition?
GS: This question is always a really difficult question to answer, and I am looking forward to seeing all of the exhibitors we have lined-up and the attention they’ll receive from buyers. I can say the POP and Sustainable destinations are both set to grow this season and we expect them to be well received and popular with buyers.
JD: We’re expecting jewellery to be the biggest growth category for next season, we are currently seeing lots of returning brands and new signings joining the line-up and this is why we’re giving jewellery a dedicated destination. Menswear will also undoubtably attract a lot of interest as the category is coming back to Olympia after a long hiatus and JATC’s first show was menswear so this huge category is close to our hearts!
Pure, in particular, has always been known for having a great content programme, in addition to the exhibition, what can we expect next time and is there any particular content coming from the JATC side?
GS: The Pure London catwalk show, which drawers crowds every season and sets us apart from over trade shows will return to the Grand Hall presenting the new seasons trends and fashion from our fantastic exhibitors. We also have some really exciting plans for content, but it is still too early to reveal speaker names, so watch this space!
Those who attended Olympia last time will have noticed the hoardings and the development work. It all looks very exciting. Do you have any insight you can share on what is happening and how this will positively affect the experience at the show in future seasons?
GS: The redevelopment of the Olympia site in 2025 will totally change and improve the event space, converting it into a destination in its own right. The space will be filled with restaurants, bars, hotels, business centres and an incredible theatre. Visitors will come to Olympia for Pure London x JATC but go on to spend much more time in the destination. It is going to be transformative for London.
JD: The prospect of the complete redevelopment of Olympia and the potential it holds for the event was a huge deciding factor in the decision when combining with Pure London as we will be the envy of Europe from a venue perspective when done. We are so excited for the works at Olympia to be completed, and when they are, it’s going to be so amazing with so much on offer, I am planning to move my whole family on site, permanently!
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